The Abbey of Saint-Leu: worthy of the greatest cathedrals

Overlooking Saint-Leu-d'Esserent and the banks of the River Oise, everyone can see it, but do we really know its history and secrets? Discover the Abbey of Saint-Nicolas thanks to the visit of Françoise Roy, tour guide for Villes et Pays d'art et d'histoire in the Picardy region.

We met with Françoise Roy, guide and history buffwho tells us about this Abbey church.

Over 1,200 years of history

Before becoming a tour guide, Françoise Roy worked in commerce. A few years ago, she decided to change careers, and it was only natural that she should turn to her passion for history and become a tour guide in the department she loves so much. Françoise then fell under the spell of this beautiful building, the Abbey Church of Saint-Leu-d'Esserent, with its countless special features.

The first is that it is made up of several constructions. Based on the hypotheses of Delphine Hanquiez, lecturer and doctor in art history, Françoise Roy explains to us « qu’there were three successive buildings first of all a church on 10^th century qui a perturbé une sépulture mérovingienne puisqu’on a retrouvé des sarcophages près de l’entrée actuelle. »

This church was built by monks for their monastery, which grew in importance in the 11th century.^th century when a Cluniac priory was founded in 1081: " This church also tells us a story, says Françoise Roy, that of Hugues de Dammartin, seigneur médiéval qui, arrivé à la moitié de son existence, décide d’œuvrer pour son salut en donnant à l’évêque de Beauvais l’église de Saint-Leu et ainsi l’offrir à l’ordre clunisien. Cette donation s’accompagne d’autres dons : terres, vignobles, moulins, taxes de passage qui permettront l’édification d’une église digne de l’ordre clunisien alors en pleine expansion ».

His descendant, Renaud de Dammartin was a typical medieval aristocrat who enjoyed waging war and taking over land and churches. He attracted the wrath of the Church who excommunicated him, one of the worst punishments that could be inflicted on a person. Surprisingly, despite his excommunication, his recumbent statue can still be seen today in the Abbey Church.

Following donations made by his grandfather, Hugues de Dammartin, the monks launched a series of construction projects, the first of which was the western section, i.e. the entrance to the church with its various porches. The existing church was kept; they simply added this worship and processional space and a southern tower. In 1160, the choir began to be built, along with the two large towers overlooking the Oise valley. Finally, from the 1180s onwards, the monks set about building the nave, i.e. the junction between the western section and the choir. Historians estimate that the main work was completed around 1210.

Even if it's not obvious to the less well-informed, there are clues in the architecture of the monument that show its different stages of constructionFrançoise Roy will tell you all about it during your visit: « On le remarque de loin : le mur de l’entrée n’est pas centré, puisqu’ils ont accolé leur massif occidental à l’église qui était là. »

Que signifie le terme « Abbatiale » ?

Unusually large for a monastery church, which numbered around thirty monks at its peak, elle fut appelée à son époque : « la petite cathédrale ».

Bigger than Senlis cathedral, The priory of Saint-Leu-d'Esserent was named Abbatiale for its size and regional influence. It is in fact the largest of the four existing Cluniac priories in the region, not to mention the fact that the king was present when it was founded, which confirms the importance of this building.

For Françoise Roy, it's even « un des monuments les plus intéressants du patrimoine isarien car liée à l’histoire géographique, politique, religieuse et économique de sa région ».

The importance of Saint-Leu-d'Esserent in medieval times

As with Creil Castle, Saint-Leu-d'Esserent's main strength is its location on the banks of the River OiseHence the name of the Abbey church: " Saint-Nicolas was the patron saint of bargemen and boatmen. On est à deux pas de l’Oise, qui était une voie commerciale importante. » Françoise Roy points out.

It's at 12^th century, during the construction of the Abbey church, that the city becomes really important : « Ce monastère clunisien tient une place particulière auprès de la maison-mère de l’ordre à Cluny en Bourgogne et bénéficie de protecteurs influents, comme le comte de Clermont, avoué du prieuré vers 1176. Il transféra la foire de sa châtellenie de Creil à Hescerent (Esserent) afin d’augmenter les revenus du monastère et ainsi reprendre les travaux de l’église. »

Not to mention the monks of the Abbey were monk lords thanks to the donation of land and rights of way by Hugues de Dammartin. The monks thus enjoyed the right of ban, allowing them to sell their wine first, which they stored in the Banvin cellar below the Abbey Church in Rue de l'Église, which your guide will also show you.

Architectural styles that evolve over the course of history

What also makes this Abbey exceptional is the diversity of architectural styles of which it is composed. The first church was Carolingianthen a western massif novel was added to it. Then, the choir from the second half of the 12th century was added.^th century is GothicA revolutionary style, as Françoise Roy explains: « Le gothique ne s’appelait pas du tout gothique à l’époque mais l’opus francigénum qui signifiait ’French art'. " An architecture that transformed the French landscape and still leaves its mark today. Finally, the windows of the chapel on 13^th century are part of the radiant gothic.

The Abbey church was not spared by the Second World Waras Françoise Roy recounts: « En 1944, une bombe tombe sur la tour nord. Elle n’explose pas mais la déflagration a causé des dégâts. Cette bombe a été larguée par les alliés puisque c’est à Saint-Leu-d’Esserent qu’étaient stockés les missiles V1 qui devaient aller détruire Londres. »

We could also write many lines on the various ornaments decorating the capitals, towers, keystones and woodwork of the 18th century.^th in the south chapel, but the best way to discover them is on a guided tour of the church. a guided tour. And our tour guide won't tell you otherwise: « Visiter ces lieux, c’est visiter l’histoire autrement, c’est tisser un lien tangible avec la passé grâce aux vestiges, témoins d’un passé lointain qui prend vie le temps d’une visite. Et puis la visite, ne l’oublions pas, c’est avant tout un moment d’échanges entre personnes passionnées par l’Histoire ».

Contact the Tourist Office to organise your visit!

Diane Maat – Com'Positiv